………when I am also stopping by to visit Cuba’s leading dissident, Oswaldo Payá, with phony phone repairmen hanging on the telephone pole outside his house tapping the wires.Payá founded the Varela Project, taking advantage of a referendum clause recently removed from the Cuban Constitution to gather names on a petition calling for plural elections. Everyone working on the project except Paya was sentenced to prison. I learned to drive myself to his house after the driver of the first taxi I rode out there in was detained for questioning and left me stranded on the outskirts of Havana.